Where pros separate themselves.

"Bad prep = peeling paint, callbacks, angry clients. Surface preparation is 70% of the job."

The quality of a paint job is determined before a drop of paint is ever applied. Professional painters obsess over prep. Beginners rush past it. That difference is visible in the finished work — and it's the difference between a one-time job and a referral business.

Cleaning surfaces

• Remove all dirt, grease, and grime — paint will not adhere to contaminated surfaces
• Use TSP (trisodium phosphate) for kitchen walls and high-grease areas
• Use mildicide cleaner on any surface with mold or mildew — never paint over mold
• Allow surfaces to dry completely before any further prep or painting
• On exterior surfaces, pressure washing is standard — control the pressure to avoid damage

Repairing damage

• Small holes (under 1/2"): Fill with lightweight spackle, allow to dry, sand smooth
• Medium holes (1/2"–3"): Use a mesh patch kit, apply joint compound in thin coats, sand between coats
• Large holes: Cut out damaged section, install a backing board, patch with drywall
• Cracks: Widen slightly, fill with flexible caulk or joint compound
• Woodwork gaps: Always caulk the joint between trim and wall — this is the clean professional line clients expect

Drywall patching — the full process

On almost every repaint job, you will encounter damaged walls — nail holes, doorknob dents, screw pops, water damage, and cracks. Clients expect their painter to fix these before painting. This is not optional. A painter who can patch well is worth significantly more than one who can't.

Nail holes and small dings (under 1/2")

• Apply a small amount of lightweight spackle with your finger or a putty knife
• Overfill slightly — spackle shrinks as it dries
• Allow to dry completely (white turns bright white when dry)
• Sand smooth with 120–150 grit sanding sponge
• Wipe dust, spot prime, then paint

Medium holes (1/2" to 4")

• Apply a self-adhesive mesh patch over the hole
• Apply first thin coat of all-purpose joint compound with a 6" putty knife — just enough to fill the mesh
• Let dry completely (4–6 hours or overnight)
• Sand lightly with 120 grit, wipe dust
• Apply second coat wider than the first — feather the edges out 6–8 inches
• Sand again, apply third coat if needed, feathering even wider
• Final sand with 150 grit — run your hand over it. If you can feel it, you'll see it painted.
• Prime before painting — always

Large holes (over 4")

• Cut the damaged area into a clean square or rectangle using a drywall saw
• Cut a piece of backing wood (1x3 or 1x4) longer than the hole and secure it inside the wall with drywall screws
• Cut a new drywall patch to fit, screw it to the backing board
• Apply paper tape or fiberglass mesh tape over all seams
• Apply joint compound in three thin coats, feathering wider each time
• Sand smooth, prime, paint

Texture matching — the advanced skill

Once you patch a wall, you need to match the existing texture — or the patch will be visible even after painting. This takes practice but it's one of the most valuable skills a painter can develop.

• Smooth walls: Skim coat joint compound over the patch, sand to perfectly flat
• Orange peel texture: Use a hopper gun or aerosol texture spray to match the existing pattern
• Knockdown texture: Apply joint compound with a roller, then lightly flatten with a trowel before fully dry
• Popcorn ceiling: Use aerosol popcorn texture spray — apply in light passes and blend into surrounding area

Watch — drywall repair for beginners (2025)

Watch — how to repair textured walls

Watch — pro-level drywall repair with hot mud

Watch — painting over a drywall repair correctly

Sanding — grit guide

Priming — the step beginners skip

• New drywall: Always prime — raw drywall absorbs paint unevenly (called "flashing")
• Repairs and patches: Always prime — patches absorb differently than surrounding wall
• Color changes (dark to light): Use tinted primer to reduce coats needed
• Stains (water, smoke, nicotine): Use stain-blocking primer (Zinsser BIN or Kilz) — regular primer will not block these
• Bare wood: Always prime exterior wood before painting

Watch — how to prep a room like a pro